Anthony Vaccarello

Anthony Vaccarello’s new line was also hotly anticipated. The Italian-Belgian designer made his mark with a schizophrenic show, somewhere between a very, very Belgian preppie style and a very, very Italian sparkly cocktail dress. To refine the style of his femmes fatales, the new media darling worked with Italian shoe designer Giuseppe Zanotti, who perched the models on golden stilettos, giving an erotic edge to a bold collection that alternated between a military and a jet-set look. Starting with a series of midnight blue satin outfits that were rather manly (fitted pants, sharp shirts, and officer’s coats with many pockets), the collection developed into a hybrid style, presenting asymmetrical dresses with busts that came up like jackets over the shoulder, in an iridescent green palette that is reminiscent of his Belgian compatriot Jan Fabre’s scarab art. Finally, long, alien furs established a classical elegance: geometric at the top, very fluid at the bottom, contrasting deep black with vintage gold. According to Libération’s Théodora Aspart, Vaccarello’s collection went “from Savile Row to the Côte d’Azur, via an S&M club … while avoiding, fortunately, the pitfalls of the Russian mafia look.”

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